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Thanks for that Claire.

I asked because I read there was some pointed criticism of Israel by Morrocco while you were there. I suppose politics doesnt have to go to street level.

i had to look up Yad and Chumash ( Did you know there was an indian tribe in California called the Chumash? )

I was in Egypt about 20 years ago for three weeks doing the tourist things. We went to a famous souk in Cairo and were warned the merchants would be aggressive. They were. As soon as they detected we were Canadians, they started shouting "Moose! Canada Dry! Moose!". My wife went to an ATM behind a stall and it swallowed her card. One of the young men at the stall discerned her problem, and immediately launched himself into the bank and, after a few minutes, presented her with happy smiles and her card. He neither asked for or expected a reward. I can only conclude hospitality is a common virtue in Arab or Muslim cultures.

So Morrocco goes on my bucket list.

e

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Family is from the Philippines.

No place for whites under Marcos.

We all spoke Spanish so it was easy.

Several hundred white Filipinos settled in southern Spain.

Brought maids from the Philippines and reminisced about the old days (lots of alcohol to improve the memories).

Good place to be a child (tutors for only 2 hours a day). Franco was a distant figure.

Great memories.

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Wondering if anyone has been to Tangier before! Thinking about maybe June this year for a few days and then taking the overnight ferry to Barcelona (our main destination to stay with friends) bringing our eight year old daughter with us. No prior experience of North Africa but have done heaps of travel with her. Safe? Too hot? Clare? 😂😂😂

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Feb 22Liked by Claire Berlinski

Sounds grand! Did you meet any German cage-fighting donut-sellers while you were there? Apparently the king is keen on them!

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I'm missing a joke, clearly. Explain?

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Burgers, but also donuts... https://www.sportspolitika.news/p/the-earthquake-moroccos-king-and

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Got it!

We saw a lot of earthquake damage--it was awful, actually. We passed by a village that had lost 20 percent of its population. But we saw a lot of new construction, too, where the government is helping people rebuild, and people told us they were fairly pleased by how the government had responded. I think they'd have told us otherwise if they weren't--usually, people are keen to complain when they think the government hasn't done a good job with something like this, and Moroccans aren't at all afraid to say so when they're unhappy.

Everyone told us how glad they were to see us, saying that they really, *really* wanted tourists to come back. They've had a very tough time--first Covid, then the earthquake. It's counterintuitive, but the best thing you can do to help people recover from a disaster (at least in a region that's economically dependent on tourism) is to go over and be a tourist.

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I hiked in the Peloponnese last year and am hiking in the Azores this year but I think Morocco might be next, based on your experiences.

Is there any indication of unrest re Gaza?

Liked your thoughts on the road to Arab democracy. Could Oman be next?

Eric

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Feb 23·edited Feb 23Author

I'd name Morocco as one of the five most beautiful countries in the world, with the others being Italy, France, and ... well, my verdict will vary depending on my mood, but Morocco is in the top five. Not only was there no unrest or hostility re. Gaza, I'd swear half the people in Marrakesh are Jewish. Everywhere I went, I saw another synagogue, another Jewish cemetery. Jews have been part of the landscape there since forever, and a lot have been going back and opening businesses or just making a second home there, especially since relations were normalized. (The normalization was a formality: relations between Morocco and Israel were normalized long ago in all but name.)

This was the second time I’ve been there, and both times I was impressed not only by the cultural legacy of the Jews, but by the pride Moroccans take in it. (To be precise: Moroccans are either very proud of their synagogues and Jewish neighborhoods or they're very hospitable and think their Jewish guest would enjoy it if they behaved as if they're proud of it. Either way, it was a pleasant and unexpected surprise. I don't know if anyone immediately realized I was Jewish--it's not usually the first thing I announce when I meet someone--but certainly no one had a bad reaction when I said that I was. I got the usual "people of the book" spiel from more than one.)

Many stores in Marrakesh proudly sell things like (beautiful) menorahs and Yads. Funny story: My brother and I found what looked like a beautiful Yad in a store that sold silver crafts. We looked at it, puzzled, trying to figure out what it was doing there. Could they use it for reading the Koran, my brother wondered? Is that part of the Islamic tradition, too? I said that I guessed it was possible, but I'd never known that. He asked the shopkeeper what it was for. He pulled out his Chumash to show us. It was ... a Yad. We felt pretty silly.

This doesn't mean Moroccans are indifferent to the suffering in Gaza, of course. (No one is, including Israelis.) But I didn't ask anyone, "So, how do you feel about Gaza," so I don't know exactly what people were thinking.

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Feb 22Liked by Claire Berlinski

So envious!!! But so happy you got a good rest!!! Glad to have you back :-)

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Our last vacation in the before times was a tour of "Jewish Morocco" in December 2019. We had many similar experiences, although we did not spend nights in the desert. Thanks for bringing back so many memories. Sadly, at 80, and not nearly as spry (and I mean it) as our president, I doubt I can manage a trip like that again.

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I didn't know such tours were offered! See my comment above--were you also impressed by what seemed to me to be sincere Moroccan pride in that heritage?

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Feb 22Liked by Claire Berlinski

I spent a month in Rabat in 2013 before returning my sailboat to the US via the Caribbean. I found the country much as you did. Before you buy property there read The Caliph’s House by Tahir Shah. It’s an invitation and a warning, and a fun read.😎

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Feb 21Liked by Claire Berlinski

Very descriptive and you have a point about human rights evolving slowly.

Too many tourists though; it's another arrondissement of Paris. Algeria seems more tempting to me.

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I've never been to Algeria, but I've been told by everyone I know who knows both Morocco and Algeria that Morocco has a vastly richer and more interesting culture. And I believe it: the Almoravid empire didn't reach that far into Algeria. As soon as you reach the boundaries of that empire, the genius disappears--it's why Seville is enchanted but Madrid is just a pleasant-enough European city.

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Grew up in Malaga, a dusty little port then.

Used to go to Seville and be amazed at the beauty.

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Oh, wow--what was your family doing in Malaga?

Yes, Seville is enchanted.

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Managed to stumble into epiphany (Jan 6th) celebrations in Seville and that was an experience. A hail of sweets, a lot of marching "bands" and cream cakes everywhere. Would definitely recommend it.

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Feb 21Liked by Claire Berlinski

Torn.

Do I go somewhere beautiful and enjoy the last years of my life in comfort, or do I keep fighting for the United States that we want?

Right now I am compromising by living in Colorado and fighting against the petty tyrannies of an authoritarian leftist legislature.

(For those who wonder what I mean, in a time of major issues such as homeless illegals setting up tent cities in Denver (when the weather can be -10 Fahrenheit), the legislature focuses on regulations eliminating free bags in grocery stores.)

The stupidity of American elected officials is exhausting.

The temptation to walk away is strong.

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Feb 21Liked by Claire Berlinski

Glad you had a relaxing holiday, love the photos.

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